Nairobi Ndakaini Dam

Exploring Kanunga

65 km Total Distance

1.5 hrs Drive Time

Moderate Difficulty

Year-round (greenest after rains) Best Season

Kanunga is one of those places that Nairobians drive past on the way to somewhere else without realising what they’re missing. Tucked in the green highlands of Gatundu, barely an hour from the city, it’s home to Ndakaini Dam — the massive reservoir that supplies most of Nairobi’s water — and a waterfall that almost nobody talks about.

I came here on a Saturday with no real plan. Just a vague tip from a friend who said the dam was worth seeing. He was right.

Ndakaini Dam

The dam sits in a valley surrounded by tea estates and patches of indigenous forest. It’s enormous — one of the largest in Kenya — but it feels surprisingly serene. No crowds, no signage, no tourist infrastructure. Just water, hills, and silence.

I walked along the edge for about half an hour, watching the light change over the water. The colour shifts from grey-green in the morning haze to a deep teal by midday. There were a few fishermen in the distance but otherwise I had the whole place to myself.

The Lakeside Resort

Before heading to the waterfall, we stopped at a small resort near the dam — one of those quiet places that clearly thrives on weekend day-trippers from Nairobi. Simple gardens, a menu of stews and chapati, and a view over the water that makes you forget you’re barely an hour from Westlands.

The Waterfall

The falls are the reward. A short walk from the road through farmland, then a trail that drops into forest. You hear the water before you see it. The falls themselves aren’t the tallest in Kenya, but they’re powerful — the kind that throw mist twenty metres into the air and make the ground tremble under your feet.

The spray soaks everything within minutes. I had my camera in a plastic bag for most of the time, shooting in quick bursts between wrapping it back up. The rocks around the base are covered in bright green moss and the light filters through the canopy above in shafts.

Kanunga is proof that some of the best places in Kenya are the ones that haven’t made it onto anyone’s must-see list yet.

If you’re looking for a day trip from Nairobi that doesn’t involve game parks or the Rift Valley, this is it. Leave early, take the Thika road, turn off at Gatundu, and keep driving until the tea fields start. You won’t regret it.

Along the Way

Scenic Viewpoints

Ndakaini Dam Overlook

The first glimpse of the dam takes your breath away. Over 70 billion litres of water supplying Nairobi, sitting quietly in the Gatundu highlands. The water is a deep teal colour on clear days and the surrounding hills are carpeted in tea and forest.

KM 58 ↑ 2040m

Kanunga Waterfall Viewpoint

A short trail through farmland and forest leads to the falls. You hear it before you see it — a steady roar that builds as the path narrows. The falls drop into a rocky gorge, mist rising through the tree canopy.

KM 62 ↑ 1950m

The Tea Highlands

On the approach road, the landscape transforms into neat rows of tea bushes stretching across rolling hills. Early morning light turns everything a luminous green. Pull over anywhere — the views are everywhere.

KM 45 ↑ 2100m

Pit Stops

Where to Stop

Food

Kanunga Lakeside Resort

A small resort tucked near the dam with gardens, simple meals, and a peaceful spot to sit and take in the water. Good for a late breakfast or early lunch before heading to the falls.

Parking

Ndakaini Dam Access Point

Park here for the dam viewpoint. There's space for several cars off the road. The area is generally quiet — you might have the whole view to yourself.

Parking

Waterfall Trailhead

A clearing near the start of the walking path to the falls. The trail is about 20 minutes each way. Wear shoes with grip — it gets muddy after rain.

Before You Go

Driving Tips

Leave Nairobi early. The Thika Superhighway is smooth but the turn-off towards Gatundu gets narrow and winding.

The roads around Ndakaini are murram (unpaved) in places. A 4x4 isn't essential but helps after heavy rain.

Bring a waterproof layer — the highlands around Kanunga get afternoon showers, especially March to May.

The waterfall trail is short but slippery. Proper shoes make a big difference.

There's no phone signal near the dam. Download offline maps before you leave Nairobi.

Best photography light is early morning — the mist over the dam is incredible before 9am.

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